I ended up having a really nice time in Manaus. My couchsurfing host took me to her favorite bar and I've got to be honest, this place may be one of the best bars I've been to in my life; really a place that epitomizes what's wonderful about life. It was called Bar Caldeira and it's been there since before Guyana became a country. The actual bar is a tiny corner shop with some caricatures along the walls and old black and white checker tile floor. The real "bar" is outside. They've set up maybe two dozen red plastic tables and chairs in the street. Every two hours or so a new band would setup on the sidewalk playing samba and I couldn't tell if there were multiple singers or if just different people from the crowd would come to sing Brazilian tunes. Oh and did I mention none of the musicians/singers were under the age of 60? Maybe it's just me but that really added to the charm of the place. This bar wasn't a place to go to drink/get drunk. It was a place where friends met and to listen to some great old time samba by some of the most passionate old timers in Manaus. Behind the tables and chairs was a line of vendors selling grilled meats on sticks that filled the air with a scent that might just turn a few staunch vegetarians. Having a cold beer outside had the same free feeling as in New Orleans but with less debauchery. When I think of a perfect night from now on this is the memory I'll be going to: an outdoor street party under the stars, a perfect warm night with a cool breeze, an endless supply of cold beer, cheap grilled meats, live music, old couples dancing, with a backdrop of Manaus' Teatro Amazonas (their picturesque opera house built in the rubber boom era as well).
All in all I had a great time on my adventure; met some kind and generous people, ate some wonderful food, and saw a new part of the world making fantastic new memories. I can't wait to do it again!
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