The national museum being closed, we strolled out of the
market area toward St. George’s Anglican cathedral. It’s one of the tallest
wooden churches in the world and one of the largest wooden structures in the
Caribbean. Marble monuments and plaques help tell the story of colonial British
Guiana, including:
- Sir James Carmichael Smyth, appointed governor in 1833
- Hubert Carlton Whitlock, who died during his voyage to England in 1876
- Dr. JRF Hutson “who practised his profession in this colony for upwards of 46 years” and died in 1863
- Peter Rose, a native of Scotland and a colonist for over 50 years, a member of the “Court of Policy” and manager of the Colonial Bank. The climate must have agreed with him, as he died in 1859 at the ripe old age of 72
What appears to be intricate white wrought iron decorates
the pulpit and designates the apse. Lovely stained glass windows tower above
the altar. I’d love to come back one day just to hear the organ with its many
decorated pipes. Along both sides of the church, the ocean breeze blew through
the open shutters, and the wooden pews were a comfortable spot to rest and cool
off.
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David then called a cab and we headed to the Roy Geddes
Steel Pan Museum. The museum is actually part of his home, and Roy himself gave
us a tour. From the gate, we walked through lush gardens containing art objects
made from steel pans and depicting famous musicians. I was especially intrigued
by the “egg plant:” a spiky yucca-like plant covered with egg shells!
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The “pan” is the top part of a steel drum that is hung by a
strap or mounted on a stand. As Roy explained, the pan is hammered into a thin
concave surface, and then the notes are formed with both heat and hammer, using
a tuning fork for accuracy. A short flurry of mallets produced a happy sound
and smiles on our faces. Upstairs, photos and news clippings of Roy and his
bands and orchestras cover every inch of wall space. Several include Roy with
former president Cheddi Jagan. Mrs. Geddes put on a CD of classical music
performed by a steel pan orchestra, and surprisingly, most of the musicians do
not read music! Today, Roy mostly teaches and works with local schools to form
steel pan bands.
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On our way back, we drove past an enormous cemetery, on both
sides of the road. It reminded me of the cemeteries in New Orleans, with the
graves above ground.
Our next stop was the 1763 Monument, commemorating the
revolt by Africans enslaved at Plantation Magdelenenburg as well as the
“struggle of all Guyanese for political liberation and national development.”
Known as the Cuffy statue, it is 15’ high above an 18’ plinth. Faces on the
back of his head and back represent all the peoples of Guyana. Plaques around
the base convey Cuffy and the revolt.
Then we headed for the Castellani House. Originally a
residence for colonial government officials, it is now the home of the National
Gallery of Art. We climbed a massive staircase to the special exhibit, “The
Spirit of Revolution,” celebrating Guyana’s 45th republic
anniversary. The paintings and sculpture (mostly mahogany) were arranged among
the rooms on the second floor. All of the windows were open, and the building
is not air conditioned or temperature/humidity controlled, so I wondered how
these art treasures of Guyana could be adequately preserved. Upstairs there are
more pieces on display from the permanent collection, also with windows open to
the sun and wind.
A short detour on our way back led us to the sea wall so I
could see the ocean. I’m used to the sandy beaches along the Jersey Shore, so I
was surprised by the mass of rocks at the water’s edge. I guess it makes sense
as a flood barrier. The driver mentioned that on Easter, the sea wall would be
crowded with families flying kites.
Back in town, we walked through what seemed like a
government and diplomatic neighborhood. Unlike the massive concrete or stone
edifices we see in wealthy capital cities, the Guyanese government buildings
are mostly wooden and white with shutters at windows for ventilation. The prime
minister’s house also has that traditional Caribbean look and is surrounded by
a wide garden and lawn and ornate iron fence.
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A few blocks away are the Peace Corps offices in a more
modern 5-storey narrow building. This is where the country directors and
program coordinators are based. One of David’s fellow volunteers, based in
Timehri, was using the computers to work on his resume and fill out on-line job
applications. The volunteers receive career coaching and job search support in
their last few months, and they work hard to line up jobs for when their
assignments are complete.
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